Home      Our Dogs      Puppies     Co-Owns      Family      About Us      Info     Fun&Games       Rescue       Links

Why buy a pet dog from a show breeder?

Have you won any honors in the breed?

Why the AKC? What about the other kennel clubs?

Do ridgebacks shed?

Can I keep a ridgeback in the city?

Can I keep a ridgeback if I don't have a fenced yard?

Is there a difference in the temperaments of male and female ridgebacks?

If I keep two ridgebacks, can they be the same sex?

Will a ridgeback pup get along with my cat?

What sort of training will my ridgeback need?

Do you keep your dogs in kennel runs?

What do you feed your dogs?

What about parasite control and shots?

Do you do any genetic screening on the dogs you breed?

After whelping, do you move your puppies outdoors?

Do the pups get outdoors at all?

Can I visit the pups while I wait for mine?

Can I spend time with your adult dogs?

How can you tell one pup from another?

What about puppy shots and other medications?

Do you have any specific requirements for prospective owners?

How much do your dogs cost?

Do you offer any kind of guarantee on your pups?

Do you cull pups?

What about after buying the pup — can we still contact you for advice?

I live too far away to get a puppy from you. Can you help me find a breeder?

What should I look for in choosing a breeder?

Why buy a pet dog from a show breeder?

Although conformation showing is considered a sport, its primary purpose is to determine the best breeding stock — the dogs that best typify the breed in structure and temperament. It is easy to develop "kennel blindness" (the inability to see the faults in your own dogs); the AKC show ring is a judgment of our dogs by our peers. This guarantees the best possible ridgebacks for pet homes as well as show homes. All our breeding dogs are AKC show champions of record.


Have you won any honors in the breed?

We have been showing and breeding Rhodesian Ridgebacks for 19 years. In that time, we have produced ridgebacks rated in the top five of the country, as well as multiple group winners. Despite our small size, Sengei was twice awarded #3 breeder of the year by the national breed club.


Why the AKC? What about the other national kennel clubs?

The UKC (United Kennel Club) has much to offer pet owners, such as unusual competitions like weight pulling and dock jumping. We encourage you to explore the opportunities they offer.

However, beware of breeders whose recognition comes solely through minor registries such as the UKC. There are comparatively few ridgebacks in these registries, which diminishes the value of their conformation honors. Sometimes, breeders will hide this fact by pushing forward their honors, without disclosing the registry that awarded them. And don't confuse the Continental Kennel Club with the prestigious Canadian Kennel Club, which also has the initials CKC.

There is absolutely no reason why an American breeder's ridgebacks shouldn't be registered in the main registry of the breed: the American Kennel Club (AKC).


Do ridgebacks shed?

Yes. You need to brush your ridgebacks for about 10-15 minutes once a week, then take a cold wet cloth over them afterward to remove dander that has come out with the brushing. I recommend a hard rubber curry or a ZoomGroom. These use static electricity to attract and remove loose hair.


Can I keep a ridgeback in the city?

Many people have successfully kept their ridgeback in the city. Just be aware it is harder and may require some adjustment on your part. The people I have seen who are successful at it usually have a dog walker or doggy daycare to help them give their pup the socialization and exercise necessary for a healthy, happy dog. Don't expect to just leave him alone in an apartment all day and come home to find a sane and happy pup. You might just find your apartment in shreds.


Can I keep a ridgeback if I don't have a fenced yard?

Again, it is possible but more difficult. You can't just turn them outside unsupervised, especially when they are pups. You may think, I don't mind walking my dog every day. And it can work; I know people who do it very well. But remember, there will be a time when it is cold and rainy, with maybe a little slick of ice on the street, you have the flu or a sprained ankle, and it is time to walk the dog......


Is there a difference in the temperaments of male and female ridgebacks?

In a general sense, yes. But remember, while there are differences in the temperaments of men and women, there is a lot of overlap and some defy the rules.

But about ridgebacks: males are generally calmer, steadier, lazier, and not as openly affectionate, although they are deeply loving.

Females are smarter, more cuddly, more stubborn, more likely to break the rules, impish, best for training. If I ask a female to get into a crate, she often will hold out for the one nearer the window, and maybe wants me to trade the bed for a more comfy one from another crate; if I ask a male to get into a crate, he says uuhh, okay. Mind you, I am using a bit of poetic license here :-)


If I keep two ridgebacks, can they be the same sex?

If they are neutered, there is no problem at all. If they are intact, some will be fine with that, others not. Unless you are a breeder, there is no reason to chance this. Get someone neutered.


Will a ridgeback pup get along with my cat?

It's up to your cat. My bet is that he or she will realize what good company that ridgeback pup is and warm up fairly quickly. Ridgebacks are pack dogs and love everyone in the pack, no matter what species that pack member happens to be. They especially seem to like cats, when they are raised with them.


What sort of training will my ridgeback need?

I am more concerned with what sort of training your ridgeback doesn't need. He doesn't need the "tough love" type training of Cesar Millan. He needs a patient, kind hand to point the way. And a LOT of persistence. Ridgebacks respond very well to positive training. Mine are quite enamored of clicker training in particular.


Do you keep your dogs in kennel runs?

No. Ridgebacks are companion animals and do not thrive away from the family.

We have 6 ridgebacks spanning 4 generations, and they all live in our home with us. We consider them members of the family. They have access to the whole house, and most furniture. But all are crate trained. They are, in fact, fed in crates partly to avoid food stealing, partly to keep them at ease with crates in case we need to restrain them for some reason. (Such as during heat cycles.) These crates are kept in high traffic areas of the house, so that even a dog in a crate can feel part of things.

We feed our dogs a human-grade holistic dry food, varying between a number of different foods, such as Wellness, Blue Buffalo, and Solid Gold.Recently, we switched to Pet Pantry, a small holistic, human grade pet food company. To this we add organic, pasture-raised meat and meaty bones, fresh free-range eggs, salmon or olive oil, spirulina and fresh Kefir (probiotics). The oldest (any over 7) also get Synovi's G3 supplement for joint health.

When you choose a food for your ridgeback, try to avoid soy, corn, wheat, useless filler fiber, and mystery meat ("meat meal"). And pick a human-grade food, if possible.


What about parasite control and shots?

We use Advantix for flea and tick control, and Heartgard for heartworm protection. They get only the minimum required shots in order to cut down on the immune system damage that can occur from over-vaccination. We follow Dr. Jean Dodd's immunization protocol and recommend it for all our pups.


Do you do any genetic screening on the dogs you breed?

Absolutely. Before breeding any of our dogs, they undergo genetic screening according to the guidelines of the OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals). They have been tested for hip and elbow dysplasia, thyroid abnormality and -- starting last year -- all will also undergo CERF (eye), BAER (ear) and heart stress tests.

We are now in process of getting the new DNA degenerative myelopathy test for all our dogs. Degenerative myelopathy is a devastating, incurable disease that is of growing concern for Rhodesian Ridgeback breeders and owners. The results of all these tests are published on the OFA website, and can be found by searching under the name of the kennel (Sengei).

The OFA is a very user-friendly site and you should always check the records of any kennel you are interested in.


After whelping, do you move your puppies outdoors?

No, keeping them close maximizes their socialization.

The puppies begin life in my bedroom in a large whelping box next to the bed. I change the bedding every day so that they will develop the habit of a clean "den." As they grow into the second week, the bedding is changed twice a day. Each puppy is handled every day, using a modern modification of the Bio Sensor method of early neurological training. In addition, their nails are trimmed every other day and they are examined for problems and cuddled frequently. Once their eyes open, the bedding is rolled back to half the box, and paper is laid down in the other half. The puppies begin to wobble down to the paper without any prompting because they are used to having their bedding clean.

At the end of the second week, we begin supplements of goats milk, yogurt, oatmeal and eggs, gradually adding in the raw meat and kibble the adults eat. (We do not control weaning, but rather allow the dam to handle this at her own speed.) The whelping box is converted into a bed and moved into the sunroom, accessible to the bedroom through a french door. The dam can come and go as she pleases and the pups have access to move about in the sunroom. The ceramic tile floor is covered with wood shavings for elimination. This is gradually pushed back away from the box making a wider and wider area of clean floor for the pups. In this way, they learn basic "housekeeping." Toys and other objects of stimulation are added to the clean area.


Do the pups get outdoors at all?

Assuming good weather, the puppies begin a chaperoned exploration of the outdoors in their third week. Until their fifth week, they are not allowed outside unsupervised by humans. After that, they only require an adult dog for company. There is much to explore outdoors, and in hot weather, we take them to the pond for swimming and wading.


Can I visit the pups while I wait for mine?

We encourage prospective owners to visit the pups after the second week. Certain rules of hygiene must be followed: for example. shoes are not allowed in the house. If you have dogs at home, you cannot visit until the fifth week, and then must bathe before coming, and wear clean clothes. Stay as long as you like, handle the pups and get to know them.


Can I spend time with your adult dogs?

Are you kidding? Of course, you can spend time with our adult dogs. Come over, play with them. Take them for a long walk if you like. They could always use another walk and they love company. We have had prospective owners, waiting for a litter to whelp, who came over every weekend for their ridgeback "hit." I love this. It shows me that this will be a successful placement.


How can you tell one pup from another?

We put a color-coded rickrack collar on each pup at birth and record it with their birth information. We continue to keep records on each pup: weight, activity level, variations in response to stimuli. As their individual personalities begin to emerge, we record anything we notice that may have significance. We also keep photographic records of individual pups, and share these photos with prospective families.


What about puppy shots and other medications?

We give the basic puppy shots at 8 weeks, right before they leave. We give the Parvo as a separate shot to put less strain on the immune system. In doing this, we are roughly following the basic vaccination protocol of Dr. Jean Dodd, We recommend you continue to follow this schedule.

Dewclaws are removed on the 3rd or 4th day. The pups are wormed at 3 wk, 5 wk and 7 wk, with pyrantel pamoate. After they are old enough to go outside, they begin to get flea and tick medication (in warm weather).

Before leaving for their new homes, each receives a vet examination and the paperwork is included with the contract.


Do you have any specific requirements for prospective owners?

We have 4 absolute requirements:

(1) WE DO NOT SHIP PUPPIES. We have had people come to us from as far away as California, New England and the Bahamas. If you fly here when the pups are just 8 weeks old, they can fit under the seat in a soft carrier for the trip back.

Never buy a pup sight unseen over the internet!

I cannot stress this enough. Some truly horrific puppy mills are now hiring excellent website designers to make them look better than just legitimate. They know what to say, and how to say it. And they are now raising Rhodesian Ridgebacks. If you want a Sengei Ridgeback, you must come here and see our dogs, lay hands on them, talk to me, play with the pups and see where they live. We won't have it any other way. And you shouldn't either.

(2) WE DO NOT SELL PUPS FOR RESALE. These pups aren't an investment, like some piece of art. If you aren't sure you want to make this commitment, don't get a pup. Wait until you are sure. By the terms of our contract, you absolutely cannot resell the pup.

(3) IF YOU CAN'T KEEP THE DOG, FOR ANY REASON, THEY MUST COME BACK TO US. It doesn't matter how young, how old, how sick, how distressed the dog has become. He or she comes back to us. We will take care of her and re-home her at the right time, preferably with an experienced ridgeback person.

(4) OUR DOGS ARE NOT PLACED AS "OUTSIDE DOGS." They are raised to live in the home with their human companions. If you want a dog just for hunting, or have a kennel, or whatever, you need to find another breeder.


How much do your dogs cost?

Our basic price range is $1600/$2000. Most are sold on a limited registration, meaning that they cannot be bred. All are equally covered by our guarantee.

If we approve you for a pup, you may give us a deposit of $400 at your discretion (which comes off the final cost). This will guarantee you a pup from the litter. (Depending on your "place in line" and which sex you preferred, if any, and the size of the litter.) We keep notes on the pups' personalities and habits, and make recommendations as to which pups we consider most appropriate for individual owners. We ask each family to choose 3 pups and put them in order of preference. I will guarantee you one of the three and will try for the highest preference, if possible. If one of your choices is wildly inappropriate to your situation, I may ask you to choose another for the list. If we cannot place a pup with you, we would return the deposit or you may put it onto the next planned litter.

You do not have to leave a deposit, but we cannot then guarantee you a pup from the litter. We only breed once, sometimes twice, a year.


Do you offer any kind of guarantee on your puppies?

Return: You may return the pup for any reason within 3 weeks of purchase, and get your money back minus the $400 deposit. This guarantee is void if there is evidence the pup has been abused.

Genetic defects: We give full money back if the dog develops hip dysplasia or elbow dysplasia within 3 years. You do not have to return the dog in order to get the refund. These major genetic problems can usually be detected in the OFA screening tests, which are generally run between the ages of 2 and 3. We encourage everyone who has a Sengei pup to get the OFA screening tests at the appropriate time to make sure they are covered under the terms of the guarantee. This guarantee also applies to dermoid sinus. However, if a DS is found, we reserve the right to have it verified by a vet of our choosing before the guarantee is honored.

Cancer: We cannot cover cancer, because there are too many environmental factors. Nevertheless, if your dog develops a fatal cancer within the first 3 years of life and reasonable efforts were made to save him, we will replace him at cost.

AIHA: Autoimmune Hemolytic Anemia (AIHA) is usually not considered a genetic problem. However, recent data suggests that primary AIHA has its roots in a failure of the autoimmune system and may indeed have a genetic basis. If your dog develops fatal AIHA with no known cause within the first 3 years of life, we will replace him at cost.

Degenerative Myelopathy: DM is a devastating late-onset disease very similar to Lou Gehrig's Disease in humans. Fortunately, last fall a DNA test was developed to identify the gene. All our dogs have been tested. We eliminate the risk of having pups develop the disease by never breeding carrier to carrier.


Do you cull puppies?

No. Culling is a euphemism for killing. We do not cull (kill) any healthy pup, or any pup with an ailment that can be cured or fixed by medical intervention. We do not destroy ridgeless pups, or pups with dermoid sinus. We consider these to be despicable practices, against our basic moral code. Pups with a dermoid sinus would have the sinus removed and then they would be placed for the cost of the operation or less. Ridgeless pups would be placed at cost (between $400 and $600).


What about after buying the pup — can we still contact you for advice?

Absolutely. We encourage you to keep in touch, to come over to our house to show us your pup and discuss any problems (or triumphs) you are having. We are always available by phone or email. We also have some excellent recommendations for books and trainers.

If you live at some distance and are having a serious problem with the puppy (usually a training issue), in addition to offering advice over the phone and by email, we will attempt to find someone closer to advise you.


I live too far away to get a puppy from you. Can you help me find a breeder?

I can sure try. It depends on where you live. I can recommend some excellent breeders in different parts of the country, but not everywhere. I do not recommend breeders simply because they belong to the right club or have impressive wins in the show ring. Any breeder I recommend will follow the same moral standards of breeding that I adhere to, in addition to having quality dogs.


What should I look for in choosing a breeder?

Well, I find this best expressed in reverse. If these criteria seem obvious, it is because they should be.

Don't buy from a breeder if they do the following:

1)   Refuse to let you see or handle their adult dogs.

2)   Spend most of the time with you criticizing other breeders.

3)   Have dogs that are shy or fearful of being touched.

4)   Never let you see the litter. Instead bring out one puppy and tell you this is the one you get.

5)   Have a contract that seriously restricts your rights to your own dog, or whose guarantees are very limited.

6)   Always keep their dogs in kennels, especially if they have had to take drastic measures to keep them there (such as debarking or shock collars) or have no house dogs at all.

7)   Consistently refer to a dog as "it."

8)   Have filthy premises, with unreasonable amounts of excrement in or around the house.

9)   Show little interest in listening to you; instead, engage in bragging, bullying or manipulative behavior.

10) Give you references who turn out to be colleagues or relatives, or won't give you the name of their vet.

11) Have a number of litters on the ground at the same time or whose kennel consists of a large number of young bitches.

12) Have no concern for your specific needs, or are over-eager to ship you a dog.

13) Have no older dogs (where did they go?)

14) In general, don't seem like people you want to know. Remember, you have to count on them to be there for you when you have a problem.